Over the holiday season, five8ths launched a small line of accessories--neckties and pocket squares.
five8ths seven-fold neckties are made using the original method for making neckties. Rather than using a separate interlining fabric, often made of polyester or wool, I simply use one wide piece of fabric, and carefully fold it over onto itself seven times (like origami), matching the edges of each fold, until the tie is formed into its final shape. The resulting layers of fabric form the thickness of the tie, rather than the interlining "sponge". The tip and tail of the tie are hemmed and blind-stitched by hand.
Once folded, the tie is stitched up the back with one long slip-stitch, which is meant to slip back and forth along the length of the tie when the tie is tied and untied, as the tie is cut on the bias and will stretch during the tying process. The slip-stitch prevents the thread from breaking, keeping the folds secured in place.
The tie is finished with a hand-stamped five8ths cotton twill label, and a keeper, which the tail may be tucked into for a put-together look, or left hanging free from for a looser feel.
The hand-labor involved in making each tie is significant--there is one short seam halfway between the tail and tip that is sewn with my sewing machine. Aside from that seam, the rest of the work is done with fingers, needle, and thread.
Available in limited quantities online in four different fabrics: navy, charcoal, brown/tan stripe, and coco.
five8ths seven-fold neckties are made using the original method for making neckties. Rather than using a separate interlining fabric, often made of polyester or wool, I simply use one wide piece of fabric, and carefully fold it over onto itself seven times (like origami), matching the edges of each fold, until the tie is formed into its final shape. The resulting layers of fabric form the thickness of the tie, rather than the interlining "sponge". The tip and tail of the tie are hemmed and blind-stitched by hand.
Once folded, the tie is stitched up the back with one long slip-stitch, which is meant to slip back and forth along the length of the tie when the tie is tied and untied, as the tie is cut on the bias and will stretch during the tying process. The slip-stitch prevents the thread from breaking, keeping the folds secured in place.
The tie is finished with a hand-stamped five8ths cotton twill label, and a keeper, which the tail may be tucked into for a put-together look, or left hanging free from for a looser feel.
The hand-labor involved in making each tie is significant--there is one short seam halfway between the tail and tip that is sewn with my sewing machine. Aside from that seam, the rest of the work is done with fingers, needle, and thread.
This tie digs-up and dusts-off what a tie is all about. A piece of fabric worn to accent, punctuate, form a look, express a personality. There is beauty in the simplicity of draping just one piece of fabric around the neck, rather than attaching a spongey-thing to the neckline. The weight is a bit different than an interlined tie, and the knot of a seven-fold tie is generally considered to be nicer.
Seven-fold ties are often made with silk, but the current five8ths line is composed of luxurious Italian linen, cotton, and cotton/linen blends. They hang out well between use.
Available in limited quantities online in four different fabrics: navy, charcoal, brown/tan stripe, and coco.